Born in 1953, the Rolex Submariner was the first wristwatch guaranteed waterproof to 100 metres. Seventy years later, it remains the archetype of the dive watch and the most recognised Rolex in the world. Its unidirectional rotating bezel graduated over 60 minutes, its Oyster case and its dial with Chromalight luminous hour markers form a visual language copied everywhere and equalled nowhere.
The current generation, launched in 2020, takes the case to 41 mm with slimmer lugs and receives calibres 3230 and 3235, with 70 hours of power reserve. At Francine Joaillerie, in Saint-Tropez, every pre-owned Submariner is authenticated piece by piece, checked for its movement and its water resistance, then delivered with its certificate of authenticity.
| Reference | Description | Diameter |
|---|---|---|
| 124060 | Submariner No Date, steel, black dial | 41 mm |
| 126610LN | Submariner Date, steel, black bezel | 41 mm |
| 126610LV | Green bezel, black dial, known as the Starbucks | 41 mm |
| 126613LB | Yellow Rolesor, blue dial and bezel, known as the Bluesy | 41 mm |
| 116610LV | Green dial and bezel, known as the Hulk, discontinued in 2020 | 40 mm |
References 116610 and earlier use the so-called Super Case, with broad lugs and a massive crown guard, which gives more presence than the stated diameter. The 126610 generation gains a millimetre but looks slimmer on the wrist thanks to redesigned case sides. The bracelet receives the Glidelock clasp, which allows the length to be adjusted over 20 mm without tools.
The 124060 without date for the purity of the dial, the 126610LN for everyday wear with a date window, the green and Rolesor versions for character. All share the same water resistance of 300 metres.
Historically, no. Demand consistently outstrips production and waiting lists at authorised dealers remain long, which supports prices on the secondary market.
Inspection of the movement and its markings, engraving of the rehaut, shade and graduation of the Cerachrom bezel, bracelet and clasp codes, consistency with the papers. Every watch comes with its certificate.
The green and blue versions of the Submariner form a family of their own, closely followed on the secondary market.
