Mario Buccellati opened his house in Milan in 1919 and went against the grain of his time: rather than the stone, he put the emphasis on the work of the metal, reviving engraving techniques inherited from Renaissance goldsmiths. The result, a textured gold that catches the light like fabric, is unique in twentieth-century jewellery.
| Technique | Effect |
|---|---|
| Rigato | Very fine parallel lines, satin-like and luminous surface |
| Telato | Cross-hatching that evokes the weave of a fabric |
| Segrinato | Lines crossed in every direction, velvety look |
| Ornato | Foliage and animal motifs chased in relief |
Fineness and regularity of the engraving, which is still done by hand and cannot be reproduced mechanically, Italian hallmarks and house signature, condition of the gold tulle on openwork pieces, fineness and pairing of the golds. A soft or irregular engraving is the first sign of a copy.
It softens over the years on the areas of friction. Slight softening is normal on an older piece, complete erasure is not.
Certainly not with conventional polishing, which would flatten the engraving. Any work must be entrusted to a workshop that knows these techniques.
Francine Joaillerie is an independent house specialising in pre-owned pieces and is not affiliated with any of the houses mentioned.